That Passport Life with Kevin McCullough

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UNFILTERED: A Palace & A Princess By The Sea

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Every journey through Italy tells its story not only through the ruins, piazzas, or coastline vistas—but also through the places we choose to rest. On a recent trip, I split my time between two very different yet equally remarkable stays: four nights at the Rose Garden Palace in Rome, and ten nights at the Hotel Christina in Sorrento. Both offered not just a room and a bed, but experiences that made the trip richer, warmer, and more memorable.

The Rose Garden Palace, Rome (5 stamps)

Nestled just off the famed Via Veneto, the Rose Garden Palace carries an understated elegance that makes you feel less like a tourist and more like a guest in a refined Roman home. Cleanliness here is not just a standard—it is a point of pride. Every corridor gleams, every surface feels freshly tended, and each day the housekeeping team restored my room to a calm, orderly retreat from the city’s bustle.

What elevates the experience even further is the dining and bar program. The breakfast room, with its generous spread of fresh fruits, breads, and cappuccinos that taste like they were crafted in a neighborhood café, quickly became part of my Roman rhythm. In the evenings, the lounge bar provided a civilized wind-down: perfectly poured cocktails, light bites, and an atmosphere that felt more private club than hotel bar.

And yes—there’s even a swimming pool, tucked away like a secret. While not vast, its elegance and serenity offered a cooling retreat after days spent trekking through ruins. It felt almost decadent, a Roman indulgence just steps from your suite.

But what sets the Rose Garden apart is the staff’s warmth. Front desk, concierge, even the general manager made themselves accessible—offering suggestions, making arrangements, and at times stepping in with a level of personal assistance that made you feel cared for, not just served. On more than one occasion, I watched staff and leadership respond to small requests with a kind of eagerness that made every guest feel special.

The quirks? The building itself once housed diplomatic offices, and its layout still carries traces of that history. Rooms are spacious by Roman standards, yet tucked into corridors that twist with a touch of old-world mystery. And while the hotel is only a short walk from Rome’s attractions—the Borghese Gardens, the Spanish Steps, even Trevi Fountain—it somehow maintains a quiet, neighborhood feel. It’s the kind of spot where you hear the hum of Rome without ever being overwhelmed by it.

After four nights, the Rose Garden Palace had left an imprint. Rome may have dazzled with its ancient glory, but this hotel gave the city a human touch: orderly, warm, and quietly elegant.

Hotel Christina, Sorrento - (4½ stamps)

Where Rome offers majesty and scale, Sorrento is intimacy and sun. And the Hotel Christina, perched high above the Bay of Naples, became my home for ten nights—long enough to appreciate its character in full.

The views are incomparable. From my balcony, Vesuvius stood watch across the water, while ferries traced ribbons of white across the blue bay. Each morning began with that panorama and each evening ended with the twinkle of coastal lights reflected on the sea.

Dining here felt deeply local. The restaurant prides itself on Sorrento’s flavors—seafood pulled from the water that very day, pastas with the brightness of fresh lemon, wines poured with generous hand. The bar scene was delightfully casual, often accompanied by music and laughter, as if every guest were part of a neighborhood gathering. Where Rome’s bar was polished sophistication, Sorrento’s was warm conviviality. Both were perfect in their own contexts.

The swimming experience was the opposite of Rose Garden’s serene pool. Here, the Christina’s pool opens to the panoramic sweep of the bay, a sun-drenched stage where you can drift for hours with the horizon as your companion. While Rose Garden’s pool whispered “retreat,” Hotel Christina’s shouted “vacanza!” Both left me grinning.

And then there was the hospitality—warm in the way only southern Italians seem to manage. From the front desk to the waitstaff, every member of the Christina family treated me like an old friend. Even the owners were visible and approachable, willing to step in, share a story, or solve a problem. One afternoon, I needed a last-minute excursion arranged, and the owner himself personally made the calls to ensure it was done. That kind of accessibility is not found in most hotels.

The quirks? The property is layered into the hillside, connected by terraces, staircases, and hidden gardens. Each level reveals something unexpected: a tucked-away lemon grove, a candlelit sitting nook, or a secluded bench overlooking the bay. Wandering the property felt like discovering little pieces of Sorrento itself.

Ten nights gave me more than a stay—it gave me a rhythm. Breakfasts overlooking the bay. Afternoons by the pool. Evenings with limoncello, poured generously as if you were family.

Two Homes in Italy

Travel is about contrasts, and together the Rose Garden Palace and Hotel Christina offered me two distinct but complementary experiences. In Rome: elegance, history, and quiet order. In Sorrento: warmth, intimacy, and discovery. Both hotels served exquisite food and drink, both made swimming an experience to savor in their own way, and both had staff—owners included—who were willing to step in and help with anything you might need.

If Italy is about living la dolce vita, these two stays reminded me that sometimes it’s the hotel—its quirks, its people, its views—that turns a good trip into an unforgettable one. 

✨ Want to bring the journey home? I’ve created a free digital photo book with more than 500 high-definition images from my recent travels through Rome, Sorrento, Capri, Positano, and the Amalfi Coast. You can sign up to receive your copy here: ITALY UNFILTERED 2025

 

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